Bacterial Infections

[Lolafish]

Common Infections

Columnaris
Bacterial Gill Disease
Swim Bladder Disease
Fin Rot
Mouth Rot
Pop Eye
Raised Scales (Pinecone disease)
Body Sores

Common Treatments

Medicated Food - Medigold, Metrogold



Anitibiotic Injection - Baytril, Amikacin (Gentimycin at half dosage of Amikacin, if nothing else avail.)



Topical Application - Hydrogen Peroxide via Q-tip

Antibacterial Dip - Tricide-Neo



Water Treatment - Maracyn or Maracyn Two



Vitamins and Probiotics - Jumpstart Treatment



--------------------------------------------

What causes Bacterial Infection?

There are numerous pathogens of bacterial nature in Goldfish.  Bacteria are among the smallest microorganisms that are capable of independent life.  Bacteria can live in, or on cells and derive nutrition from the media in which they live.  Bacteria is contagious, and can spread from fish to fish.   Some bacterial infections, such as tuberculosis can even infect humans through open wounds.  Never put your hands or arms in your tank if you have an open sore.

Bacterial infections can be expected in fish that have recently undergone stress via shipping, fasting, winter temps, chilling, over heating, crowding, parasitism, trauma during breeding or handling, poor nutrition and poor sanitation.  These problems need to be corrected in order to treat properly.

The most common types of bacteria in Goldies are:

Aeromonas salmonicida
Pseudomonas flurorescens
Flexobacter columnaris

Bacteria kill fish via 4 different manifestations:

1. Septicemia
2. Ulceration
3. Toxic Shock
4. Bacterial Gill Disease

Keeping bacteria, which is always present in a closed system aquarium, in smaller, safe numbers is key to prevention.  Bacterial counts can skyrocket when mulm (such as a dirty filter), uneaten food, dead fish, etc..are allowed to accumulate beyond a fish's ability to be safe from infestation.   

--------------------------------------------

Columnaris (Cotton Mouth or Flexibacter Disease)

Symptoms:

White spots on mouth, edges of scales, and fins
Cottony growth that eats away at the mouth
Fins disintegrate beginning at the edges
'Saddleback' lesion near the dorsal fin
Fungus often invades the affected skin
Rapid gilling in cases where gills are infected

Most Columnaris infections are external, and present first as white or grayish white spots on the head, and around the fins or gills. The lesions may first be seen only as a paler area that lacks the normal shiny appearance. As the lesion progresses it may become yellowish or brownish in color and the area around it may be tinged red.

Lesions on the back often extend down the sides, giving the appearance of a saddle. On the mouth the lesions may look moldy or cottony, and the mouth will become eaten away. Fins will erode and have a frayed appearance as the infection progresses. The gills filaments will disintegrate as the bacteria invade them, and the fish will begin breathing rapidly due to lack of oxygen. Less commonly, the infection will be internal, and display no external symptoms.

Columnaris


© Vet.uga.edu

Treatment:

Columnaris is treated with antibiotic foods and a water borne antibacterial such as Maracyn or Maracyn Two.  Keep in mind that treating with antibiotic and antibacterial water borne chemicals may disrupt the biological filter and frequent water changes will be required to keep water quality good.  Do not use your aquarium light during Maracyn treatments, and increase water circulation due to possible oxygen reduction from chemicals. Also, remove the carbon in your filters.

--------------------------------------------

Bacterial Gill Disease

Symptoms:

Gasping
Rapid gill movement
Hanging near surface
Flicking and/or rubbing
Gill paleness or discoloration
Heavy mucus production

The most common causes of this disease are low dissolved oxygen, overcrowding, kidney disease, or possible aggravation from parasite invasion.   

Healthy gills: (Red, Meaty)


© AquaPuppies.com

Unhealthy gills: (White, Pale)


© AquaPuppies.com

Treatment:

Improve water quality - Increase aeration.  Do a large water change and check all parameters.  Keep up with frequent water changes.  Assuming a bacterial infection is present, feed antibiotic foods, and treat with Prazi for Flukes.  If the fishes condition does not improve, it may be necessary to treat with Gill Guard by Goldfishconnection.com
--------------------------------------------

Swim Bladder Disease

Symptoms:

Erratic Swimming Position
Loss of equilibrium
Fish will be unable to maintain buoyancy

If your Goldfish is floating belly up at the surface of the tank or can't seem to rise from the bottom it probably has swim bladder disease. The swim bladder is a sac responsible for maintaining buoyancy in the fish. The sac inflates if the fish needs to be more buoyant, and deflates if the fish needs to be less buoyant.  Keep the water in the fish tank very clean at all times. This helps prevent bacterial and viral infections in your Goldfish. It is believed that swim bladder disease may be caused by a virus.

This is NOT to be confused with buoyancy issues brought about by overfeeding and/or feeding floating foods that cause temporary "floaty" conditions.  This can be remedied by feeding less, and only sinking pellets/foods.

Normal Swim Bladder:


© Biology-online.org

Fish with Swim Bladder Disease:


© Daecks.blogspot.com

Treatment:

When floating is first noted stop feeding for 3 days then feed frozen peas that have been defrosted and shelled.  This will help clean out the digestive system.  If floating continues then pre-soak pelleted food in a container with 1 ounce water and a pinch of Epsom Salts.  Soak for 10-15 minutes then discard the solution and feed the pellets. Try this only once or twice as regular ingestion of Epsom Salts will harm the fish's digestive system.

These methods work in the early stages of digestive related floating and can help control the floating to allow the fish to live a reasonably normal life.  More aggressive actions include aspirating the swim bladder periodically. This involves sticking a needle into the fishes swim bladder and removing some air.

In severe cases, when the above has been attempted and the condition continues regardless take the fish to an aquatic vet and have a partial pneumocystectomy done. This is a partial removal of the swim bladder. There are vets who perform this surgery, as extreme as it sounds.  They can also perform an air sac pneomonocytis (draining of the air sac).  The air sac will usually refill in 24 hours. Repeating this procedure may be necessary.  A vet can also put in a quartz implant coeleotomy.  Small peices of uncolored quartz are implanted in order to give the fish ballast. 

--------------------------------------------

Fin Rot

Symptoms:

The fins will begin to look milky, the tips will whiten and then rot off 

Fin rot is a bacterial disease involving opportunistic bacteria such as Aeromonas, Pseudomonas or Flexibacter that abound in all aquatic environments added to the stress the fish is undergoing at the time. It is usually self-resolving as they settle in, but does demonstrate just how sensitive fish can be to stress and how fin erosion is often a sign that all is not well.

Fin Rot


© 2003 J Mayer

Treatment:

Perfect water quality, .3% salt solution, and nutritious food.  If the fin rot is advanced and the fish is near death, injections of Baytril may help. Treat the water with Maracyn or Maracyn Two.  Keep in mind that treating with antibiotic and antibacterial water borne chemicals may disrupt the biological filter and frequent water changes will be required to keep water quality good.  Do not use your aquarium light during Maracyn treatments, and increase water circulation due to possible oxygen reduction from chemicals. Also, remove the carbon in your filters. 

--------------------------------------------

Mouth Rot

Symptoms:

Reddish mouth
Strands of tissue hanging from the mouth

Usually initiated by a parasite attack.  Bacterially caused mouth rot occurs when the fish is rubbing its nose against the sides of the aquarium or other objects in the tank.  Eventually, the mouth may collapse on itself, leaving only a jagged hole as the oral cavity.

Mouth Rot


© Aquariumfish.com

Treatment:

Check water quality.  Swab oral lesions with hydrogen peroxide.  Injection with Baytril, and removal to a larger facility will often save it.

--------------------------------------------

Pop Eye

Symptoms:

The signs of pop-eye are that one or both eyes start to bulge out

Pop-eye may be seen with dropsy, which is a condition in which fluid accumulates in the abdomen as a result of dysfunction of the internal organs.  If you suspect dropsy but it's not in the advanced stages, you may be able to treat and prevent the dropsy from worsening.


Pop Eye


© FlippersandFins.net

Treatment:

Maintain perfect water quality. Salt to .3%.  An injection of Baytril may be warranted.  If you are dealing with dropsy, swab the raised scale area with hydrogen peroxide, if the area is red and/or inflamed.


--------------------------------------------

Dropsy or Pinecone Disease

Symptoms:

The signs of pineconing are that a fishes scales will stick out and away from the body

Dropsy

In advanced stages, after the body has swelled, eyes have bulged and/or scales are sticking out (like a pinecone) this disease is usually always fatal.  It is an internal infection that has invaded one or more of the fish's organs.  Injections and water treatments may be worth a try.  If the fish is breaking out with massive ulcers the most humane treatment is to euphonize the fish.  Dropsy is not contagious so if the fish is left in his home pond there should be no problems.

Most fishkeepers assume that dropsy is fatal and death is imminent.  What many hobbyist do not realize is that at the early stages, dropsy is very curable. 

Early detection and fast and prompt action is the key here.  You must act at the first sign of noticing your Goldie's scales not looking flush.

Fish with Dropsy


© AquaPuppies.com


© AquaPuppies.com


© AquaPuppies.com


Treatment:

1. Tank temp. of 80 degrees F:
Gradually raise the water temperature to 80 F.  When I say gradually, no more than 1 or 2 degrees and hour.  The high temp. will boost your Goldie's immune system.

2. Epsom Salt:
Make sure there are no aquarium salt in the tank and add 1/8 teaspoon of epsom salt per 5 gallons of water.  Wait 12 hours and add the second dose.  Wait 12 hours and add the third and the final dose.  Do not add anymore salt after that.  Make sure you replace any salt you remove with WCs.  The epsom salt will help release the excess fluid that your Goldie is holding due to the dropsy and help reduce the bloating.

3. Metromeds:
Go to www.Goldfishconnection.com and order Metromeds.  This is mandatory.  If you can afford to, get it overnighted.  This stuff works like a miracle on early stage dropsy.  Metromeds is absolutely mandatory and without it, your chances of beating the dropsy is greatly diminished.  Feed Metromeds exclusively twice a day.  No other foods whatsoever.

4. Maracyn 2:
This medicine is very effective against dropsy.  Between the great metromeds and the maracyn 2, it will hit the dropsy hard!  If you use Maracyn 2 or any other drug, make sure you remove the carbon from your filter.

5. Beyond Perfect water:
Do tons of WC to keep the water parameters beyond "perfect".  When in doubt, change the water!  "Perfect" water is probably the best medicine.  Make sure you replace any salt or maracyn that you removed.  Also match the temperature of the water as not to shock the fish.

Remember!  Start treating at the first sign of the scales not being flush.  Early detection is the key and prompt action is absolutely crucial. 



--------------------------------------------

Body Sores:

Symptoms:

Body sores usually start as a patch of red scales that can peel off and reveal a hole that exposes muscle and flesh
Skin tags or strands may be hanging from the wound edges. 

Ulcer


© Koivet.com

Treatment:

Swab the sores with cotton dipped in hydrogen peroxide - this is best done by lifting the fish out of the water, and holding it above the surface for a count of 30 seconds to allow the peroxide to penetrate well.  Do not do this more than 3 times over several days, or stop if the sore is beginning to heal.  This may be the only treatment that your fish needs, aside from salting to .3%.  Keep perfect water quality, of zero ammonia and nitrite. 

If the sores continue to worsen, an injection of Amikacin may be necessary.  Dose according to the size of your Goldie.

There is a great product on the market called Tricide-Neo from www.koiacres.com  It is used as a dip to treat ulcers and body sores, and does wonders.